A Wonderful Few Days in Vis

A Wonderful Few Days in Vis

We had our sights set on Croatia and were once again trying to find somewhere relatively off the beaten path. It was summer and we needed our beach time. After hours spent on the internet looking at all of our possibilities, we eventually discovered an island by the name of Vis.

Vis seemed to cover all of our wishes:

  • Not overdeveloped
  • Beautiful beaches and ocean
  • Wine
  • Good food
  • Reasonably priced accommodation

We decided to head over and check it ourselves!

Vis is the furthest Croatian island from the mainland, about two and half hours away from Split. It lies behind the more popular islands of Brac and Hvar. One of the reasons that Vis is less developed than it’s neighbors is that it was closed to the public until 1989. It used to be a strategic military base, which also housed some submarines. (More on that later…)

We first flew from Berlin to Split where we spent a great day and then took a Jadrolinja ferry over to Vis.  We approached the main town (also called Vis) and were instantly impressed.

View from the ferry

We booked a small apartment through airbnb.com located directly in between the town of Vis and another small town, Kut. You could easily walk to both in minutes along a beautiful seafront road. Both towns had beautiful old stone buildings with flowers growing everywhere. The little bay was dotted with sailboats and small yachts.

View from our window

Delicious small restaurants were located along the seafront as well as in the small lanes in the towns. The local food was so fresh and good and we enjoyed fresh seafood and risottos. Most importantly the local wine was also fantastic! There was also a lot of Italian influence left over from Venetian rule. We definitely enjoyed more than one tasty pizza during our time on Vis. Our apartment was actually located directly above a great pizzeria by the name of Pizzeria Karijola.

Of course we were excited to swim in the beautiful crystal clear waters and the beaches on Vis definitely did not disappoint! Croatia doesn’t really have many sand beaches and the coast is quite rocky. Swim shoes are useful if you have sensitive feet and also offer protection against sea urchins.

There were several gorgeous beaches in walking distance from our apartment. The water gets deep very quickly and once you are in, it is like swimming in a giant swimming pool! The water is as clear as glass and as you swim you can take in the stunning views all around.

We loved our location but were eager to see what else Vis had to offer. We took a local bus to a pleasant little fishing village on the other side of the island called Komiza.


Komiza is stunning and a very worthwhile excursion. The town is built around a nice little harbor filled with fishing boats. Along the seafront promenade are charming little cafes and restaurants specializing in seafood. We treated ourselves to some cold beer and some divine mussels. We both agreed that the mussels were the best we have ever had.


We ended our time in Komiza by taking a refreshing dip in the ocean on the local beach. It was a great experience swimming in the sea and looking at the stone houses of the old town completely surrounding you.

On our last day, we went to a local travel agency in the town of Vis and booked a boat tour around the island. Our boat excursion provided a nice overview of so many great beaches along the coast of the island.

We also traveled to the nearby island of Bisevo and went inside the famous blue cave. The pictures don’t do it justice!

Entrance to the blue cave
Blue cave

Our last stop of the day was the former submarine base. It was interesting to experience as it was built directly into a hill. Our boat was even able to go inside.

Former submarine base

As always, time went by much too quickly and soon we found ourselves back on the ferry headed to the mainland. We enjoyed every day spent here and hope Vis doesn’t change too much by the time we return.

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